By Farr | Farr Rising

It’s easy to say, now that we are where we are, that the By Farr endeavour was always going, at some stage, to move from excellent to elite, or from very good to superb. In wine, such a conclusion is never foregone, and no matter how hard anyone tries, it will forever remain out of the reach of most. And yet, By Farr is now here; it is one of the best, a leader on all quality fronts. At a base level, it farms a tough, complex environment in the Moorabool Valley near Geelong: ancient rivers have adorned the property in 6 different soil types, while the nearby ocean brings cool air to the site by night. Together with the Farr family – led on the winemaking front by Nick Farr – the produce of this land tends, routinely, to transfix. -JAMES HALLIDAY