Ministry of Clouds

These wines have always been good, but today the best expressions are defined by McLaren Vale, rather than too much external dabbling: detailed wines that are long of limb and vibrant of fruit, dappled with savoury tannins and saline freshness. Clare Valley riesling and Tassie chardonnay are the outliers, dangling from the belt of the Vale’s older vines and upper reaches, exciting new varieties including picpoul, mencía and a fringe of cooler Adelaide Hills material. Tim Geddes long made the wines, yet today the team is a triumvirate, with former Wedgetail Estate maker Chris Parsons joining the fray at the new winery in ’22. Julian and Bernice craft this and shape that, while Chris is the technical raft. -NED GOODWIN MW