I once thought the view of vineyards from above was as good as it gets. That was until I boarded a petite sea plane and embarked on a 45-minute flight from the Fijian capital of Nadi to Kokomo Island. The sight of azure ocean and the Great Astrolabe Reef, one of the largest and most untouched reefs in the world, is to date, the most magical sight I’ve ever witnessed.
As we touch down on the sea and disembark to a wooden jetty, the short walk to the island’s reception reveals a kaleidoscope of colourful fish. Occasionally, large sea turtles glide through the water as if in slow motion, oblivious to the beauty they call home.
Suddenly, the air fills with music as Fijian staff sing a welcome song that stirs the soul. For a moment, time seems to stop. They greet us with a friendly, “Bula!” (hello).
Does life get much better than this?
Kokomo Private Island is a 45-minute flight from the Fijian capital.
Lang Walker's vision
It turns out it does, especially when you’ve got a glass of rare German riesling in hand.
The man behind Kokomo Private Island and its impressive wine collection was the Late Lang Walker AO, esteemed Australian property developer and philanthropist.
When Lang first visited the Pacific Isle on his luxury superyacht (incidentally called Kokomo) long before his death in 2024, he was mesmerised by its beauty and proclaimed it the most beautiful place on earth. The island is surrounded by the world’s fourth-largest barrier reef and some of the best diving on earth.
The island was abandoned by a previous developer, and Lang saw promise in the exotic slice of heaven, turning it into an island resort with five luxury residences, 21 fancy villas, five beaches and its own tropical rainforest.
There, he and his wife, Sue, created a place to share their commitment to sustainability and their lifelong love for exceptional food and wine.
The Lang Walker Collection
Lang had a deep vinous love and the kind of cellar that goes with it. When the 78-year-old died peacefully in his home at Woolloomooloo, Sydney, he left the enviable collection to his family who decided it was too good not to share with the world. They were right.
What eventuated was a legacy in the form of the resort’s new wine program, ‘The Lang Walker Collection’, a deeply personal selection of wines that once belonged to him.
A selection of bottles from the Lang Walker Collection.
There’s the 1993 Michele Chiarlo Barolo, the 2013 Joh. Jos Prüm Riesling, the 2014 Chatron et Trebuchet Vosne-Romanée, a 2020 Chatron et Trebuchet Chassagne-Montrachet, 2021 Ansgar Clüsserath Riesling and the 2021 Prager Grüner Veltliner.
Sommelier Stephen Swanepoel
A collection like this needs a savvy gatekeeper. The man who oversees the beverage offering is young South African food and beverage manager and sommelier Stephen Swanepoel. Stephen has what can only be described as a dream job. He exudes happiness, not only because he lives and works in a luxury island resort, but because he is entrusted with Lang’s precious drops. He has full access to the wine collection, of which there are thousands of bottles.
“Just getting it here is the mission,” he says. “The family bring it when they come on the private jet.”
Lang’s palate was refined and adventurous. His tastes spanned boutique Australian vineyards, rare Italian vintages, and legendary Old-World wines. Most importantly, he sought out wines with personality. “What I find truly special about his collection is that, despite his sophisticated taste, many of his selections are from lesser-known estates,” Stephen says. “He had a deep appreciation for the hidden gems of the wine world, the ones that aren’t just about price tags or prestige, but about character.”
Highlights are the 2018 Giaconda Beechworth Nebbiolo from Victoria, and the 2006 Kooyong Estate Pinot Noir, also from Victoria. South Australian gems include the 2017 Torbreck The Run Rig Shiraz from South Australia’s Barossa Valley and Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz (1998 and 1999) from South Australia’s Eden Valley.
There are also boutique wines from Stephen’s homeland, and special bottles from renowned New Zealand producer Stonyridge with the 2019 Larose’ Bordeaux-style blend.“That’s the beauty of this collection,” Stephen reflects. “It’s not just about the wines themselves, but the stories they tell. Each bottle represents a moment in time, a decision made, a preference discovered. And now, they’re here, on Kokomo, waiting to be uncorked and enjoyed.”
Stephen Swanepoel.
The experience
He pours the good stuff at the island’s three dining venues: Beach Shack, Walker d’Plank, and Kokocabana. In the kitchens, chefs pluck ingredients from the island’s 5.5-acre organic farm, and Stephen has been known to pair wine with seafood caught by the chefs earlier that day during the Dock to Dish experience – think trevally crudo with Ansgar Clusserath 2021 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling from Mosel, Germany; pineapple snapper with the Franz Hirtzberger 2021 Honivogl Grüner Veltliner Smaragd; followed by vanilla mascarpone parfait and a glass of Stag’s Leap 2022 Karia Chardonnay from Napa Valley.
Guests can explore the collection by glass or book a full flight tasting through a Coravin experience, which Stephen hosts in the Wine Cellar.
Fortunately, there’s nothing stuffy about it. This is a fun tasting. Stephen works the intimate room like a puppeteer, entrancing us with blind tastings and back stories. He knows there’s more to wine than an encyclopaedic knowledge of vintages, terroirs, and technical jargon (though he’s got all that covered, too). He knows the real magic is in the experience.
One minute we’re exploring the differences between French and New World wines (noting the subtlety of French wines versus the expressiveness of New World wines) and the next we’re sipping on a 1997 Hill of Grace Shiraz, (impressive elegance and ageing potential) while comparing it with the nuances of Bordeaux and American wines.
Fiji's first homegrown sommelier
We also meet cellar master (and Fiji’s first qualified senior sommelier) Lily Puamau, the young mother from the capital of Suva who started working on the island in housekeeping. When she started helping out in the hospitality section of the island, Lily knew there was white wine and red wine, but that’s about it.
Lily Puamau.
Gradually, under the guidance of the island’s former food and beverage director, Lily began to learn the difference between the likes of chardonnay, riesling, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.
“I started here with zero experience, nothing,” she says. “I was so eager to learn because every day, there was another great wine to try and I wanted to learn more and more."
Now, under a mentorship with Stephen, her knowledge has blossomed. She is the first Fijian to pursue the WSET Diploma in Wine and Spirits, and has aspirations to work in Australia.
Lily studied WSET Level 1 and Level 2 in person in Fiji, but because of the remoteness of Kokomo, studied WSET Level 3 online via hybrid learning. Stephen helped her with the tasting and theory, and Jane Skilton MW supported her from New Zealand.
In June 2026, she was thrilled to receive her results and qualification. She will begin her Level 4 later this year.
It’s extraordinary really, and testament to her dedication to balancing work, life and education. While Lily’s favourite wine comes from Bordeaux, she admits she has never actually seen a real vineyard in person.
It is also testament to the benefits of sharing wine and knowledge through meaningful mentorships.
Saying goodbye
I’m not going to lie; I cry genuine tears as I pack my bags to depart the little slice of Pacific heaven. “To be in the Pacific, on an island as remote and stunning as this, and still have access to some of the world’s most remarkable wines – it’s a privilege,” Stephen says. “I'm just a very fortunate person that gets to share Mr Walker’s amazing collection with other people now.”
As the Fijians sing and wave as we depart via the jetty toward our sea chariot with wings, I can hand on heart say I miss them – and the wines – already.
Getting to Kokomo Private Island Resort
Direct flights to Nadi International Airport operate from Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan, Vancouver and the USA (San Francisco, Los Angeles, Dallas and Honolulu).
The journey is approximately 45 to 60 minutes from Nadi via Kokomo’s owned and operated Twin Otter dual command Seaplane or AS350 single turbine Helicopter. Find out more at kokomoislandfiji.com.
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