Although Sam Middleton swore that the Mount Mary JWDM CABERNET he made in 2015 was “a one off” and “not to be repeated”, the strength of the 2021 vintage in the Yarra Valley – and demand from members – has seen the return of the extremely limited wine.
Released on 13 July, the 2021 JWDM CABERNET is made from a selection of the estate’s oldest cabernet sauvignon vines, planted in 1972 by Sam’s grandfather and Mount Mary founder, the late Dr John William Dyer Middleton.
“Cabernet sauvignon from this block has certain qualities and characteristics unto itself,” Sam says. “We believe it has a very unique story to tell in the context of Mount Mary and Australian wine in general.
“It is certainly not a wine that will be made every year, but something to be cherished in the truly exceptional cabernet vintages,” he adds. “There must be no doubt that the fruit exemplifies the highest quality possible from these very special old vines… that will be the determining factor as to whether this wine will be made or not.”
“The other important factor is that it must not affect the quality of the Quintet. The Quintet is our focus and the best expression and representation of our entire vineyard year in, year out.”
Unusually for cabernet, the JWDM is fermented in open-top fermenters and hand-plunged, to allow for a gentle extraction of tannins and greater ingress of oxygen during ferment, which increases freshness and aromatic expression. After three weeks on skins, the wine spends 20 months in brand new French oak barriques before being racked and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Just one barrel, or 326 bottles, of the 2021 were made (around half of the 649 produced in 2015), which Sam says is a function of lower yields and the Quintet requiring a greater percentage. The ’21 also has a touch of cabernet franc, where the ’15 had malbec – both varieties are grown in the same 50-year-old block of vines, and selected based on which one Sam thinks will work best that year. “Cabernet franc in 2021 was truly outstanding,” he says.
“The 2015 JWDM CABERNET is a little more concentrated, has a slightly darker, more brooding flavour profile,” says Sam. “The 2021 is a touch lighter, perhaps a little more elegant and expressive of red fruits.”
Read Philip Rich’s review below.
2021 Mount Mary JWDM CABERNET, Yarra Valley
“Only the second JWDM after 2015 and made from the original cabernet block planted in 1972. 95/5% cabernet sauvignon/cabernet franc. Hand plunged rather than pumped due to the small volume. A saturated purple black. Darker, more brooding than what was a wonderful '21 Quintet. This has a core of pure blackcurrant, black cherry, cedar, iodine, gently crushed violets and lavender. Even better on the palate, which has an old-vine creaminess coupled with tannins that are incredibly polished and perfectly interwoven with the fruit. An utterly brilliant wine. I can safely say this will still be looking good, cork permitting, 20 years from now.” – 99 points, Philip Rich.
The 2021 Mount Mary JWDM CABERNET is $625 a bottle and can be purchased by members through the website. Non-members must contact the winery directly.
Subscribe to the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast
Hear from some of Australia's top winemakers and industry professionals as they share their stories and insights on the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast. Listen here, or on your usual podcast platform, and remember to rate, share and subscribe so you never miss an episode.
