For many producers, winemaking starts in the vineyard. But for Jeffrey Grosset, it begins even earlier.
“I’ve always thought that winemaking started not when the grapes are handed from vineyard manager or grower, to winemaker (at the crusher), and not even simply ‘in the vineyard’ as is often quoted, but at the point of choosing the place and the variety to plant," he says.
“We have planted all four vineyards we make wine from in the Clare Valley. They are all distinctive and specific. Only recently, did I realise that such an attitude or belief is still not universal.”
The benefits to this approach are evident in Grosset's latest release, with each wine clearly reflecting its vineyard's terroir.
Included is the Grosset Polish Hill, Grosset Springvale Riesling, Grosset Alea Riesling and the Grosset Apiana Fiano, all from the 2025 vintage. Unsurprisingly, both the flagship Polish Hill and the Springvale rieslings scored highly, with Halliday taster Mike Bennie awarding them 95 and 96 points respectively.
Jeffrey puts this success, particularly for the Springvale, down to time. “We think it is the best in a decade, for the vines are getting older (25 years) and seem to be hitting some slate which has added an extra complexity.”
Speaking to this vintage more specifically, Jeffrey added: "The 2025 vintage was a test. The extreme dry weather, followed by warm sunny ripening conditions, offered great potential. For us, the result –from lower yields – was extraordinary: pristine fruit making exceptional wines.
"The impact of biodynamics cannot be overstated. In 2025, our vineyards could be best described as oases in an otherwise parched environment – the result of a holistic approach."
Jeffrey also follows a less is more approach to winemaking, to make his carefully chosen sites speak as loudly as possible. Biodynamic practices are diligently followed in the vineyard, plus great attention is given to handpicking all the fruit.
“An unwavering commitment to wine quality centres on a fundamental principle: plant vines in precisely the right place, nurture them with meticulous care and create memorable wines," he says. "This vision has remained unchanged.”
To learn more about these newly released Grosset wines, dive into Mike Bennie’s reviews below.
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